Boston Acoustic speakers

[sanitarium16]

I installed a set of BA speakers in my 07 JGC with the RAQ radio. On certain songs the dash speakers distort with bass, specifically when playing a cd. It doesnt do it with the radio. Aren't the BA's suppose to be better than the base speakers? I experienced popping with the base speakers but never distortion. The speakers are not blown.

[robpp]

did you add the BA amp, or just the speakers???

[sanitarium16]

just the speakers

[MacDee]

I installed a set of BA speakers in my 07 JGC with the RAQ radio.

Was it easy to install?

[Scottina06]

the install is gravy...

[Matt]

I installed a set of BA speakers in my 07 JGC with the RAQ radio. On certain songs the dash speakers distort with bass, specifically when playing a cd. It doesnt do it with the radio. Aren't the BA's suppose to be better than the base speakers? I experienced popping with the base speakers but never distortion. The speakers are not blown.

What are the settings you currently use on the RAQ?

This sounds very odd to me... at first glance I would suspect a filter issue with the amplification, but if it only does it when playing CD's, then it leaves me a bit confused.

On a different note, glad to hear you got them in!! :)

[White WK Swagga]

IMO My from the factory back seat door BA speakers sound like crap. They don't handle the bass well. all sounds good from the front seat tho... But if I'm washing the truck w/ the music on and I open the back seat doors the sound is horrible.

[sanitarium16]

I dont have the BA amp so it has to be the amp in the raq. I have the radio on all even settings. Even if i turn the bass off all the way i get front dash distortion. How do i install bass filters?

[Matt]

I dont have the BA amp so it has to be the amp in the raq. I have the radio on all even settings. Even if i turn the bass off all the way i get front dash distortion. How do i install bass filters?

It just doesn't make any sense to me.. hmmm.

Get some bass blockers, or high pass filters... they install in-line with the speaker wire. Very cheap/easy.

[sanitarium16]

It just doesn't make any sense to me.. hmmm.

Get some bass blockers, or high pass filters... they install in-line with the speaker wire. Very cheap/easy.


How do i install the blockers? The stock speakers have a clip on the speaker leads?

[Matt]

How do i install the blockers? The stock speakers have a clip on the speaker leads?

You'd just have to splice somewhere along the run and add them in.

[Lifted_up]

To me it sounds like the problem is just the speakers being underpowered. I don't know the exact specs of the BA speakers but I'm sure they have a higher rms power than the base speakers. If you have the money, you should just get the amp too and that has a higher rms power rating output then the amp in the stereo can supply. That should fix your problem. :)

But then again....I may not know what the heck I'm talking about. haha

[Matt]

Under powering a speaker cannot harm it. Clipping a speaker can. If the OP is cranking the volume (amplifier) past clipping then that could be the issue. But, one would have to assume that the BA driver is a more efficient driver, therefore needing less power than the base model to achieve similar "loudness." I think the issue is with the receiver. If the problem only occurs when you are playing a CD and not any other sources (i.e. radio, sat, etc), then all roads lead to the receiver.

[sanitarium16]

It happens with all sources. Radio, external sirius, cd. It defintley is because i do not have the amp.

[Lifted_up]

The BA speakers are definitely more effecient drivers with a higher rms power rating. If there is still only 66 watts of total power coming from the RAQ headunit the speakers are definitely being underpowered. It will not harm them as Matt said but with the higher rms power rating, the drivers require more power to effeciently reproduce sound. For example, say you have an amp with a rms power rating of 500 watts running a subwoofer with a rms power rating of 500 watts. Say you switch that subwoofer out for a one with a rms power rating of 1000 watts. The second sub may not be as effecient as the first setup due to the second subwoofer requiring more power to to effeciently move the cone of the woofer. This will result in more distortion. That is what the power ratings are for. A speaker should always be matched with an amp that has equilevant power rating for the best sound quality reproduction.:thumbsup:

[Matt]

The BA speakers are definitely more effecient drivers with a higher rms power rating.

A higher RMS power rating does not mean a driver is more efficient than another. At all (not even close!).

If there is still only 66 watts of total power coming from the RAQ headunit the speakers are definitely being underpowered. It will not harm them as Matt said but with the higher rms power rating, the drivers require more power to effeciently reproduce sound.

False. Clipping may be happening, but this is not the result of a driver being underpowered. A driver + being underpowered + no clipping = no problem!

For example, say you have an amp with a rms power rating of 500 watts running a subwoofer with a rms power rating of 500 watts. Say you switch that subwoofer out for a one with a rms power rating of 1000 watts. The second sub may not be as effecient as the first setup due to the second subwoofer requiring more power to to effeciently move the cone of the woofer. This will result in more distortion. That is what the power ratings are for. A speaker should always be matched with an amp that has equilevant power rating for the best sound quality reproduction.:thumbsup:

If sub A had an efficiency of 91.5 db and sub B had an efficiency of 81.5 (assuming sub A had an RMS rating of 500w and sub B had an RMS rating of 1000 watts), I would take sub A all day over B based on efficiency (RMS power is the most overrated thing in car electronics BTW).

I know I sound like a dick, but honestly, all that you have said is false. I spent over a year reading/researching about this. It is never necessary for a driver to be matched with an equivalent amount of power... this is just what the industry and marketing experts want you to think. Again, I apologize if I came across as an ass, but I would want someone to correct me if I was not giving them the best available info, that was my only intention.

[Lifted_up]

:slapfight:First of all I didn't start on here to argue with Matt. I was helping a fellow jeeper...I didn't say it is more effecient with a higher power rating. There alot of things that go into factoring if it is more effecient. Construction of the speaker, sensitivity, power handling, and more.

What I said was if it is matched with a proper amp that has the same ratings, the setup will be more effecient. Just think of this....and these are ridiculous numbers, but this will get my point across....If you have a speaker that can handle 2000 watts rms and you have one that can handle 75 watts rms. Both of them have the same specs and construction all except for the power ratings. You hook up an amp with 50 watts rms.....which one do you think will perform better? The speaker with 75 watts rms will perform better because it is matched better with the amp. If you were to hook up the speaker with the 2000 watt rms power rating to the amp, of course you're going to get sound but it's not going to be the most effecient sound that the speaker can reproduce because it is not properly matched. And with the same specs all except for the power ratings, the larger speaker is going to require more power to drive the speaker so there is possibly going to be less output. I only speaking from experience also.....I have been installing audio equipment for quite a while now for myself and for a company. I am only speaking from experience and have had many different setup's.

[Lifted_up]

Ok....I'm done....anybody want to have a drink? lol Matt?

[Matt]

:slapfight:First of all I didn't start on here to argue with Matt. I was helping a fellow jeeper...

Again, I apologize if I came across as a dick, my only intention was to get the info correct for the OP.

I didn't say it is more effecient with a higher power rating.

I mean, look above, that's exactly what you said... :confused:

There alot of things that go into factoring if it is more effecient. Construction of the speaker, sensitivity, power handling, and more.

Sensitivity = efficiency :thumbsup:

What I said was if it is matched with a proper amp that has the same ratings, the setup will be more effecient. Just think of this....and these are ridiculous numbers, but this will get my point across....If you have a speaker that can handle 2000 watts rms and you have one that can handle 75 watts rms. Both of them have the same specs and construction all except for the power ratings. You hook up an amp with 50 watts rms.....which one do you think will perform better? The speaker with 75 watts rms will perform better because it is matched better with the amp. If you were to hook up the speaker with the 2000 watt rms power rating to the amp, of course you're going to get sound but it's not going to be the most effecient sound that the speaker can reproduce because it is not properly matched. And with the same specs all except for the power ratings, the larger speaker is going to require more power to drive the speaker so there is possibly going to be less output. I only speaking from experience also.....I have been installing audio equipment for quite a while now for myself and for a company. I am only speaking from experience and have had many different setup's.

Again, go to a real car audio site (i.e. DIYMA) and you will find that RMS ratings are grossly overrated. When you see a drivers spec sheet saying 1,000 watts RMS, that is in no way a power requirement; it doesn't mean that it will take 1,000 watts to for the driver to play at its full potential, at all. A drivers RMS rating simply tells you how much A.C. power can be dissapated in the speakers voice coil without damaging the speaker (mechanical failure). Again, it is in absoultely no way a power requirement in any way. Plenty of guys over on that site run 1,000 watt woofers with a measly 200 watts being fed to them and they couldn't be happier.


Sorry to be the asshole (it's a role I don't like to play), but it's hard for me to sit back and not correct ya know. I certainly don't consider myself a know-it-all by any means, but I do try to offer what I do know to JG.

---------- Post added at 10:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:50 AM ----------

Ok....I'm done....anybody want to have a drink? lol Matt?

haha, cheers!

http://www.blog.joelx.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/02/beer-toast.gif

[Lifted_up]

The BA speakers are definitely more effecient drivers with a higher rms power rating. If there is still only 66 watts of total power coming from the RAQ headunit the speakers are definitely being underpowered. It will not harm them as Matt said but with the higher rms power rating, the drivers require more power to effeciently reproduce sound. For example, say you have an amp with a rms power rating of 500 watts running a subwoofer with a rms power rating of 500 watts. Say you switch that subwoofer out for a one with a rms power rating of 1000 watts. The second sub may not be as effecient as the first setup due to the second subwoofer requiring more power to to effeciently move the cone of the woofer. This will result in more distortion. That is what the power ratings are for. A speaker should always be matched with an amp that has equilevant power rating for the best sound quality reproduction.:thumbsup:

I know what got you to think that now.....I was meaning that the driver it self is a more effecient driver plus it has a higher rms rating. Maybe that's what you're talking about. Hope that clears it up.