WK Front and Rear Differential Fluid Change

[ahamay115]

I did a quick search and didn't find anything but I am nearing the 37xxx mile mark and still have not changed the fluids in my differentials that was due at 30k miles. I was wondering how important you guys think this is... I know I need to do it, but being that it is this far past the 30k miles, should it be a pressing issue?? Also if anyone has a link or advice for everything needed to do the job, I'd greatly appreciate it! I know there has been some discussion on buying the rip off fluid from the dealership or the fluid with the additive already in it... any opinions/suggestions would be greatly welcomed!!

Thanks guys!!

-Chris

[LTrainGC]

Do it.

We need to know what drivetrain do you have?

[ahamay115]

sorry...forgot that part...haven't fully made the transition over here yet!!!

I've got an 06 overland...got the qd2...and all of that!!

[LTrainGC]

Wow I just typed out a long post about what you need and how I changed mine and I accidentally hit back and I coldn't recover text.... that is a bummer. I will come back tonight and re do it

[ahamay115]

thanks for the effort!!! I'll check back later!!

Thanks again!

-Chris

[DirtyBlackJeepSRT]

What's your location? I know a couple people that will do it for cheaper than the dealer.

[dreamer1213]

Jeep actually recommends to change the fluid in the diffs every 12K miles.

I did mine on my 02 Overland with Quadra-Drive by myself, all for about $120, where if they dealer did it, it would have been $600 for the diffs and transfer case...

All depends on if you want to do it yourself...or let someone else do it...

[mjl2610]

My moms wj has 64k miles and never had the diff and tcase fluids changed. Anyone in the chicago area have a good, cheap service shop they use to get the service done that wont break the bank?

[ahamay115]

I'm located in erie, pa.... if you know anyone in the area I'd appreciate it!! I don't mind doing the work myself...its just a matter of finding enough time to get it all done!!

[tman4024]

Wow I just typed out a long post about what you need and how I changed mine and I accidentally hit back and I coldn't recover text.... that is a bummer. I will come back tonight and re do it


hit control z simultaneously, it'll undo the last action. It's too late now, but just a note for the future :)

[dreamer1213]

I'm located in erie, pa.... if you know anyone in the area I'd appreciate it!! I don't mind doing the work myself...its just a matter of finding enough time to get it all done!!

Doing it yourself with be the most cost effective way to go....but you do need a good day, well, not a whole day...to get it done right the first time...

[LTrainGC]

hit control z simultaneously, it'll undo the last action. It's too late now, but just a note for the future :)

That is what I usually do when I accidentally hit back or something like that but it didn't work this time :(

[TimmyB]

Jeep actually recommends to change the fluid in the diffs every 12K miles.

I did mine on my 02 Overland with Quadra-Drive by myself, all for about $120, where if they dealer did it, it would have been $600 for the diffs and transfer case...

All depends on if you want to do it yourself...or let someone else do it...


Huh, it cost you $120 for the oil?

[AcidCold]

I did fully synthetic from Royal Purple, you don't need any additive with that stuff, i believe it's 90 weight??
If you go full synthetic, i will recommend you do the transfer case as well, very easy to do! buy some gasket maker, brake cleaner so when you open up the rear cover, you can spray the heck out of the gears to dissolve the old oil. if i remember correctly, the front has a drain plug.. i think i still removed the cover so i could spray and clean that too ( i drive my wk in deep mud) TC has a drain plug, drain it, refill and plug.
I bought an oil pump to keep the garage a bit cleaner when filling up the TC, hope this helps.

[dreamer1213]

Huh, it cost you $120 for the oil?

It cost me $120 for the following...and its everything needed to change the diff/transfer case oil. I'll have to check my receipts...may be it was less...lol...

2 quarts Mopar NV247 transfer case oil
4 quarts Royal Purple 75W140
8 oz of Mopar Addative
1 tube of RTV Silicone

Even tho Royal purple says that there's a Limited Slip additive already in it....the Quadra-Drive in my WJ didn't like it with the additive...so I added that too...

[ahamay115]

thanks for the responses guys! AcidCold.. how much did changing everything over to the royal purple fluids run you? does anyone else agree that it is a worthwhile change? and running just the royal purple without any mopar additive in the axles? also i have heard before to change the transfer case, but i thought everyone was saying to stick with the mopar fluid in there?

Thanks for all the help guys!! Hopefully I can get this job done very soon!!

-Chris

[AcidCold]

Not sure how much it would be for the required quartz since i stock up on that stuff, good to have extra so when i'm wheeling and need to change it out on the spot (due to water crossings) last oil change i spent $200 which was on engine, axles and tc.
Amsoil is very good stuff as well fyi..

[TimmyB]

thanks for the responses guys! AcidCold.. how much did changing everything over to the royal purple fluids run you? does anyone else agree that it is a worthwhile change? and running just the royal purple without any mopar additive in the axles? also i have heard before to change the transfer case, but i thought everyone was saying to stick with the mopar fluid in there?

Thanks for all the help guys!! Hopefully I can get this job done very soon!!

-Chris


I do whatever the manuel in the glove box says. I check everything off on the "Maintenance log book schedule B" I have. I am due for my differentials any time now. Do you have one of those, great to keep track of everything.

As far as brands of oils, like Royal Purple compaired to brand X everyone has there own opinion. But here is mine, I use all sythetic and go with good name brand when its on sale. Like the AdvanceAuto near me has 5 quarts of Mobile 1 sythetic oil plus Mobile 1 filter for $29.99 so I stocked up for the next year of changes. If you keep up with the scheduled changes I think the over priced Royal Purple is a waste and not needed. In my 94 GC I never even changed the differential or transfer case oil and I traded it in with 227,000 plus miles on it with zero transmission problems.

[TimmyB]

I did fully synthetic from Royal Purple, you don't need any additive with that stuff, i believe it's 90 weight??
If you go full synthetic, i will recommend you do the transfer case as well, very easy to do! buy some gasket maker, brake cleaner so when you open up the rear cover, you can spray the heck out of the gears to dissolve the old oil. if i remember correctly, the front has a drain plug.. i think i still removed the cover so i could spray and clean that too ( i drive my wk in deep mud) TC has a drain plug, drain it, refill and plug.
I bought an oil pump to keep the garage a bit cleaner when filling up the TC, hope this helps.


I'd be carefull about spraying cleaner on the gears. Some of the residue is still left on, then mixes with the new oil breaking it down, plus the residue on the gears might affect the oil from coating them properly. Like when changing the engine oil you dont go and spray the inside down, but instead the contaminants come out when draining the oil. I would not start messing with removing any covers, but instead just drain the old oil and refill with new at regular intervals. Especially for the home mechanic that really doesnt know what they are doing but just wants the oil changed. Stick with the maintenance schedule recommended by Jeep and you will be fine.

[dreamer1213]

I agree....I didn't spray cleaner in on my gears either for that same reason..

If you don't change the diff oil....they will, and I repeat...will start to whine...might take a 100K miles...or less....diff oil loses its lube abilities just like engine oil....you change you're engine oil every 3K miles, but don't do the diff's every 12K...It'll catch up with you...and you'll end up spending alot more to get the gears replaced....unless you don't mind whining gears...

Ohh...my ZJ's front and rear diff howled...and I mean like there was 2 wolves riding along with me..I was the 3rd owner...and got it for my b-day...so I didn't have a choice..it was already doing it....take care of you drivetrain! Its worth it..

[AcidCold]

Darn! an here i thought i was doing a good thing! that explains me rear whining sound!!! i have done that to the rear a few times and once for the front, never for the tc thought.
Reason for the spray was due to having water mixed with my oil, i guess i will start avoiding that, thanks guys.

[ahamay115]

hey guys, looking for an update on this... any definitive ideas on which brand of fluid is best to use in the differentials? It seems that synthetic is a good idea, but do I still need to add the mopar additive or can I go without it?

Thanks guys! Trying to get this done soon, but don't want to screw anything up...this jeep has to last forever!! lol!!

[Marlin]

You absolutely need to run the Mopar friction modifier in a QDII system, suggestions you don't need to are dangerous. A dealer can sell you only as much as you need (100ml per diff from memory).
You can use any brand oil that has the equivalent specs required as per the service log (it's in the handbook).
I do exactly this and send it to a normal mechanic I trust, not the dealer. Cost is about half of what the dealer wants to do the job.

[LTrainGC]

Marlin is correct.

I used Mobil 1 75W140, buy 4 quarts of it. Should be between $15 and $18 a quart at advance or autozone.
You need two bottles of the diff additive from the dealer - 4oz bottles each - one for the front and one for the rear diff. Also need a tube of RTV to seal the rear diff. The front has a drain plug.

I know the manual says to change the diff fluids every 15K - I've got about 18K on this fluid and I just checked it yesterday. Still at the right level, looks clean, and smells fresh. I'd recommend it.

[scottydog]

Redline synthetic 75w140 has additive already mixed. Btw too much additive is not a good thing. I would try redline, then add a little extra additive if you feel the dif acting up in a sharp turn.

If you haven't already get a 14mm hex for the front dif and transfer case. I just picked up a set of hex sockets from Harbor Freight $14.

[ahamay115]

Hey guys, sorry to dig up an old thread but it still applies.... I'm about to change my differential fluid and I have decided to order the amsoil fluid. I just wanted to check to be sure I get everything I need. I was gonna order 4 quarts of the 75w140 gear oil...or should I get 5 just to be safe? Also what else do I need? I think the transfer case is supposed to be done at the same time? And the dealership fluid is recommended for that...???? Is there anything else that should be done at the same time? Any recommendations or tips/advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks for the help guys...its really overdue and needs done...

reminder... its a 2006 overland... quadra drive II setup...

Thanks,
-Chris

[ducks unlimited]

dont sweat it i just did mine and im at 46K :lol:

[05quadratrac]

Here is some video's I found on Youtube that show how to change the fluid in the Transfer case and Differentials, i've never done it so im not sure if its correct but here goes. The differential video is the easy but not correct to do it I think but thats how I plan to do it. =) It all seems easy enough? I might do mine at 40k in a few hundred miles.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AwW-MMujZI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNdHmpQQJJQ&feature=related

[chicago_jeepster_]

Hey guys,

Im confused... If you get Full Synthetic oil, do you still need to add the additive? or are you just adding it as "extra insurance" ? Thanks.

[maxst2]

You need to add it if it is required ( electronic diffs ). If you do need it... you must either get some that has it already in the oil (redline or royal purple has been tossed around the boards with it having it already in it) or get oil without it and get an additive from the dealer to add in with your oil.

My question is... if say i DONT need it... would it effect my diffs if i got some royal purple that has it?

[NHWK05]

2 things here.

1 Id like to see a nice write up on changing the diff fluid for the front end. Ive dont the rear before but i have not had a chance to try the front so id like to see what i am getting in for.

2, I work at autozone and we sell a mobil 1 and royal purple that says it has the additive already in it. Will that be bad to use in a QTII diff? The QTII diffs are just open differentials and do not require an additive but i want mobil 1 or royal purple fluid.

Also i know its 75w140 but exactly how much goes in each diff once drained?

Does anyone know is LubeLocker makes a re usable diff cover gasket for the wk rear end? I had them for my D30 and D44 and it was so much easier then rtv every time i changed fluids.

http://www.lubelocker.com/products.html

This would say no but i have had them for a chry 8.25 and the wk rear is ssupposed to be a chry 8.25 of sorts as well as the d44 in the SRT.

[Ridin' Around]

You can run a fluid with the additive in in WITHOUT a problem. The Amsoil Severe Gear (http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=1468345&page=catalog.aspx?category=10) is one of those fluids.

Also the "Super Secret Dealer Only Fluid" that goes in the 245/247/249 Quadra Drive is a MobilFluid 424 fluid, Amsoil offers the ATH (http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=1468345&page=storefront/ath) fluid that works well in that application.

You can use the online lookup guide (http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=1468345&page=appguide)to check for fluids & capacities for any vehicle.

[NHWK05]

Thanks that is really helpful.

[drew54]

Also i know its 75w140 but exactly how much goes in each diff once drained?
As for the amount of fluid in each axle, I had a little over 1.5 bottles in the front and a little over 2 in the rear. I bought a pump for about $10 and this is the only way to go. I added the friction modifier first and then added the gear lube.

I would say I ended up with about 8 oz left over total. So my assumption 52 oz in front and 76 oz in rear. When I drained my front, I think it only had 32oz in it or less, so I was quite worried it had been being abused by the previous owner and neglected. Anyone else have a low amount up front.

Transfercase fluid and friction modifier I bought from Mopar. Lube I bought was MAG1 from my local Napa. It met all the requirements and was about half the price. My Dad uses MAG1 in all of his tractors and so far no problems.

14MM or 9/16 Allen wrench is needed for the front end. My Transfer case was a 3/8. Rear was 1/2 inch bolts.

[05quadratrac]

Has anyone used the cheater methods I posted above in those Youtube video's? Is it a good or bad idea to do it that way? I looks super simple.

[maxst2]

I wouldnt think that would be a bad way of doing it... if your oil isn't contaminated. If it is... might want to do it the proper way.

[Walt]

Did mine that way. Oil wasn't contaminated and was full.

I did pump it out into a clean container, then measured how much came out. Gave me an idea of how well I did. That was ~38K miles. Next time, I'll take off the pumpkin cover and wipe it out thoroughly.

Used Mobil-1 75W-140 full synthetic. Says on the front that it meets Chrysler warranty requirements. :thumbsup: No special additive required for Quadra-Trac II.

That stuff has an odor all its own. You won't be a chick magnet afterwards. :lol: Enjoy.

[nav18tor]

I have just had a service @ 42500 miles, and the independant dealer mentioned the driveline oil change but thought I could go to the next service @ 55,000 miles before I have it done

That will be in about 4 months time

Most of my work is motorway cruising @ 80mph

Hope I am not shortening the life of my drivetrain:eek:

[BLACK DOG]

I'd be carefull about spraying cleaner on the gears. Some of the residue is still left on, then mixes with the new oil breaking it down, plus the residue on the gears might affect the oil from coating them properly. Like when changing the engine oil you dont go and spray the inside down, but instead the contaminants come out when draining the oil. I would not start messing with removing any covers, but instead just drain the old oil and refill with new at regular intervals. Especially for the home mechanic that really doesnt know what they are doing but just wants the oil changed. Stick with the maintenance schedule recommended by Jeep and you will be fine.

It is Recommended to ONLY clean dif with light oil

[dmlong47]

i used

1 quarts Mopar NV247 transfer case oil
3 quarts mobil 75W140

but i got a qt1


draind the front and
and used the a pump to pump out the back axle and the refill it to save time http://www.wkjeeps.com/misc/front_axle_service_wk.jpghttp://www.wkjeeps.com/misc/rear_axle_service_wk.jpg

[ahamay115]

Finally serviced my differentials and transfer case after 54,000 miles... whoops! Everything looked good though, the rear fluid was dirty as expected but still full and doing its job. My concern is that my transfer case only took ~1 quart of fluid back in it. And of course this is the one time I decided that I didn't need to empty my drain pan after each axle, so I have no idea how much actually came out of the transfer case. I know it is supposed to take almost 2 quarts, but it will not take any more. I'm not sure what the inside of the transfer case looks like, but I did notice that I was not able to get my fill tube in very far, it seemed like a gear was in the way. So I moved the jeep around a little and opened the fill plug again, and the blockage was gone, but still it wouldn't take any more fluid.

Any ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
-Chris

[fcdd25]

Hey Chris,

I had that same problem with my transfer case last month. (See my posts from early August). Got only one quart in. Dealer was stumped too. Drove it around for a few days without pushing it too hard because it was making a slight noise around 20mph. Got back under it a few days later and got the entire 2nd quart in no problem and no more noise.

I still don't know why I had the problem in the first place but all is good now. Tip: Back the rear up on ramps so truck is tilted forward allowing more fliud into the case. Good luck.

[ahamay115]

Thanks for the reply! I drove it around this weekend and I do think that I can hear a slight noise too, so I'm hoping I can get a chance to get back under it asap to see what I can do.

Thanks again!
-Chris

[fcdd25]

Sounds good. Let me know how it goes. Thanks.

[ChrisWk]

I got some Redline 75W140 NS fluid that I brought for my 99WJ but never used it, so it is about 10 year old never opened was going to put it in my 05 WK is this stuff too old to use. Also it does not have Limited Slip friction stuff in it. So what should I do?

ChrisWK

[jes_96]

Firstly, you'll have to add the limited slip additive (MOPAR, Redline, etc) if you're going to use it. Secondly, Mobil suggests a shelf life of 5 years on unopened oil, but keep in mind, they have a vested interest in having you pour out your old oil and buy some new Mobil 1. Personally, ten years is a bit much for my comfort zone, especially considering what's at stake.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Mobil1_Shelf_Life.aspx (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Mobil1_Shelf_Life.aspx)

As a sidebar, I swear by the Redline oils. The 75W140 with the LS additive worked wonders for the binding I was getting in hard turns when I first bought my Jeep (seems the original owner put 36,000 miles on the original conventional gear oil - it was quite crummy when it come out). I've used Redline in all my vehicle differentials (had a 240SX that I changed the diff fluid in every 60,000 miles .... sold it with 245,000 miles on it - never had a problem). Good stuff.

[ChrisWk]

Well I order some mobil 1 75w 140 gear oil at advance auto for a grand total of $45 dollars plus tax for 4 quarts. If you order online put in this promo code BIG30 get 40% off your $75 dollars order.

ChrisWK

[05WK]

Thanks for the reply! I drove it around this weekend and I do think that I can hear a slight noise too, so I'm hoping I can get a chance to get back under it asap to see what I can do.

Thanks again!
-Chris

DONT back up a ramp! that will allow an overfill! the "fill line" is the dif hole. if it pour out, its full.

now... maybe driving around the block then trying again seems to work, good. but done angle the axle to fill it with more......

great video on youtube by a member(name slips my mind). search differential. 2nd or 3rd post. how to vid.

[kkuty]

Do it yourself...so simple.

[ChrisWk]

Well I got my 75w 140 gear mobil 1 lube do I need the mopar friction stuff too? I got the 4wd.

[sheeko]

Well I got my 75w 140 gear mobil 1 lube do I need the mopar friction stuff too? I got the 4wd.

I also used Mobile 1 gear oil last year and I did not add limited slip friction stuff. If your grear oil bottle has "LS" on it, it means it already has Limited slip in it.

[ChrisWk]

Yes its got the LS on the bottle.

Thanks

[nspsend]

Didn't know that about the LS on the Mobil 1 but I still used the Mopar friction modifiers when I did front and rear differentials. I'm pretty sure you still need to do this with electronic limited slip (ELSD) which I have.

Mobil also mentions that you can add additional OEM specific friction modifiers on their web site: http://tinyurl.com/mobil1gear

"...Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials.*In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required.*For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid."

[sheeko]

It would be helpful, if someone explain what "highest level of limited-slip performance" mean and If too much Limited-Slip added with oil what happens?

I read on the forums that no limited-slip needed with Mobile 1 "LS". So I never added when I did oil change last year.