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Old 06-21-2009, 12:33 AM
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DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

Had to go through several threads to get the info I needed so I decided to do a writeup myself. You'll need a basic set of metric wrenches & med/deep sockets. Nothing extraordinary, but to give you an idea, front caliper bolts are 21mm, caster/camber plate nuts at the top are 18mm, fuse box 10mm, etc. Of course, if you decide to do it on your own, I'm sure you have a decent set. Also, I used a little loctite blue on the caliper bolts.

This Ball Joint Puller/Separater isn't necessary, but definitely handy(and highly recommended) when trying to separate the upper A-arm joint. I picked mine up cheap at Napa or Oreilly's a few years ago, can't remember:




Remove wheels, jack up the FRONT, put on parking brake, & put it on stands.

1. DRIVER SIDE

2. Get the fuse box on the driver side out of the way by removing the 3 nuts holding it in place(nut closest to engine is recessed).



3. Remove two brake caliper bolts. Support it somehow in which the brake lines are not strained. I set mine on a low step stool

4. Put jack under lower control arm and jack it up a little. You'll see the spring and shock compress. Pop out the little plugs holding brakelines to the shock and any other place that might get damaged when the lower arm drops.

5. With lower control arm supported by the jack: Remove swaybar link bolts. I've got the BW links so yours may look different. You may have to lower the jack so the lower control arm will drop enough to pop the bolt out.



6. With lower control arm supported by the jack: Remove upper A-arm nut. Use the puller to pop the joint apart. You can use a hammer if you don't have a puller, takes a mighty whack or two. Dropping the lower control arm may make it easier to separate.



7.Remove 4 bolts from caster/camber plate/shock tower.



8. With lower control arm supported by the jack: Remove the bolt holding the shock to the lower control arm. You'll have to let the arm down in order to pull this bolt out.



9. Once you've done this the entire shock assembly will drop down. You'll have to use a little elbow grease to get it (push upper A-arm upward), but it will come out.

10. Now that the shock assembly is out, remove the upper shock mount nut. Make sure to hold the shaft coming out of the shock (no clue what it's called) with a wrench as you remove the nut.



11. Make note of the orientation of the upper plate. Pull up and the shock mount/caster camber plate, & bump stop will come right off. Pull off old spring and install new aftermarket spring. Make sure the lower pig tail matches up where the old spring sat.

12. Put the upper plate/bump stop assembly back on in the same orientation you took it off. You might have to push down on the spring in order to get enough thread to show to get the nut on. Use a wrench to hold the shaft as you tighten the nut down.

13. Put the entire shock assembly back in. Go in reverse order to get everything back togethor. Start where the shock mounts on the lower control arm, ending with jacking the shock through the fender well and tightening the 4 bolts. Put brake lines back in place.

14. Put the brake calipers back on (I used a little loctite blue on the bolts). Reinstall fuse box.

15.PASSENGER SIDE

16. Remove coolant reservoir: This thing is mounted in three spots. There is one nut close to the engine, a clip holding it on the fender, and a molded plug on top of the fenderwell. Once the nut is removed and the clip popped off, pushing the reservoir towards the engine will "slide" it out. Also, pop off the black hose clip mounted on the shock nut.

17. The rest of it follows the driver side spring removal.

18. Install wheels & lower.


REAR

1. DRIVER SIDE

2. Place something in front of front tires, remove rear wheels, jack up the rear and support it on stands. Do not put the stands under the axle. Calipers do not need to be removed.

3. Place the jack under the axle between wheel & pumpkin and lift until spring & shock compress.

4.Remove the swar bar link upper bolt. You may have to lower the jack in order to allow the axle to drop enough to get this bolt out.



5. With axle supported by the jack: Remove the lower shock mount bolt. You may have to lower the jack in order to allow the axle to drop enough to get this bolt out.



6. Make note of the orientation of the spring's lower pigtail. Lower the jack and the axle will drop enough to get the spring out. You might have to push down on the axle a little bit to get enough clearance to get the spring out.

7. Remove the rubber bump stop by grabbing it and giving it a good pull. Cut about 1" off the bump stop. Don't skimp here, get at least 1". I used a hacksaw, not too difficult.



8. Install the bump stop. Make sure you push it all the way back up in place.

9. Install the aftermarket spring in the same orientation the lower pigtails were on the original spring. Make sure your upper & lower rubber isolators are in place.

10. Jack up the axle and install the lower shock mount bolt & sway bar link bolt.

11. PASSENGER SIDE

12. Exactly like driver side directions.

13. Install wheels & lower.

Thanks to Gotit5 on the red site! Yes...I got his permission!
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  #2  
Old 06-23-2009, 06:52 AM
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Re: DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

Nice Scott!!! Have you done this mod yourself? Do you recomend it for a novice mechanic?
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Old 06-23-2009, 07:22 AM
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Re: DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

I've done the shocks and struts myself... took my time and was patient and I got it done in an afternoon.
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:48 AM
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Re: DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

I installed lowering springs on my mazda, having never messed with any suspension before and did it on my own, with the help of a floor jack as well. It's not as hard as it looks!
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:57 AM
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Re: DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

Quote:
Originally Posted by White WK Swagga View Post
Nice Scott!!! Have you done this mod yourself? Do you recomend it for a novice mechanic?
I havent done it myself...I dont mind paying for someone to do it in 1.5 what would take me 5 at home. It helps a lot ot have a lift. I posted this for the DIYer's and cheapos! LOL
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:00 AM
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Re: DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottina06 View Post
I havent done it myself...I dont mind paying for someone to do it in 1.5 what would take me 5 at home. It helps a lot ot have a lift. I posted this for the DIYer's and cheapos! LOL
LOL I hear ya. I would rather a trained certified tech do it for me too.
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:10 AM
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Re: DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

great write up scott!!! +rep
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:20 AM
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Re: DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

^^^ Agreed. I want to improve the traction with my truck and I think you just inspired me to.
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Old 06-23-2009, 10:07 AM
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Re: DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

only thing i would add as a caution when working with front shock spring assembly, I would always use spring compressors! These springs are under a load most of the time...just be careful generally!
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:54 AM
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Re: DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX007 View Post
only thing i would add as a caution when working with front shock spring assembly, I would always use spring compressors! These springs are under a load most of the time...just be careful generally!

Ah good call, forgot to mention that as well! Spring compressors can be rented from places like auto-zone for $15 I think it was. Don't try and take the spring off without one!!
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Old 06-23-2009, 12:06 PM
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Re: DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

Wait, scott no spring compressor??? I havent done my eibachs yet because the arms of the compressor i have will not fit between the upper coils, but your saying I dont need a compressor? I'll do them right now if thats the case.
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Old 06-23-2009, 12:12 PM
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Re: DIY WK spring install-use for shocks and struts as well

Why mess with the rear bump stop, shouldnt the lowering springs just make the car sit lower but not affect the travel distance down? Wont the car be able to go lower when going over bumps doing that? With my stock springs I dont think I ever "bottomed out".
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