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Help! Steering wheel removal

11K views 26 replies 10 participants last post by  moosehead 
#1 ·
I am mid project and am hoping someone can help me out here. I have removed the airbag completly and am looking at this...



I have the 10mm Hex socket but cannot budge the damn center bolt. I can't imagine this is reverse thread but even tried that... Any guidance would really be appreciated! Also, is there a trick to keep the steering wheel from moving while trying to crack the bolt?

Thanks in advance.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
those center bolts for steering wheels usually have a torque of around 35 ft/lbs. at least it was on my passat. So you really gotta crank on it pretty good. i also believe they have limited use and you should mark it with a sharpie that you did re-tighten it. max use of like 3 times for that bolt. get a long breaker and it will come out pretty easily. Also it is NOT reverse threaded...
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the quick response. I ended up doing just that and used a small breaker bar to crack the bolt. Once that came loose the rest was cake. I now have a woodgrain free Overland :thumbsup:
 
#5 · (Edited)
The part number of my wheel is: 05057580AD
 
#7 ·
Sweet!! My wheel IS a limited wheel and the heated funtion works!!

I completely forgot that the limited had the heated leather wheel as well, thanks jp467 - it would have gone unnoticed!
 
#8 ·
nice work! Is this straight forward as you make it out to be? How long did it take? I am considering an overland, but really dislike the wheel with the black interior.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Yes very easy. First disconnect the battery for at least a few min then remove the two 10mm bolts holding the airbag onto the wheel. Unclip the wire harnesses in behind then move onto the stubborn 10mm hex mentioned above. Once that's out the wheel came off with almost no force at all. Had a wheel puller handy but it was not needed. That's it!

** EDIT ** It has been learned that you risk damage to the clockspring if the wheel is not held straight throughout the install process!! Be very carefull and remove at your own risk!
 
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#15 ·
Yes very easy. First disconnect the battery for at least a few min then remove the two 10mm bolts holding the airbag onto the wheel. Unclip the wire harnesses in behind then move onto the stubborn 10mm hex mentioned above. Once that's out the wheel came off with almost no force at all. Had a wheel puller handy but it was not needed. That's it!
604, after disconnecting the battery, did you first pry off the round cover to expose the 10mm bolts holding on the airbag?

thanks, trying to avoid a self-inflicted bloody nose from the airbag.
 
#12 ·
I picked the wheel up on eBay for about $120 but it doesnt look like there is much out there right now. Just keep an eye out and one will pop up eventually.
 
#16 · (Edited)
The 10mm airbag bolts you can access on the back side of the steering wheel sort of on the steering column. No covers or anything to remove - once you remove those bolts the whole circular airbag/horn piece will release from the steering wheel. Then just disconnect the wiring harnesses carefully and you'll have full access to the larger hex nut for steering wheel removal (as seen in pic at top). You'll prob need a small breaker bar to crack the bolt so have one handy if possible.
 
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#17 ·
Did you get your srt wheel already??
 
#19 ·
I don't see how it could, the SRT8 wheel is an OEM Mopar part that was made specifically for the grand cherokee so there should be no issues there. You also retain the use of your original airbag so your not really modifying the safety system at all.
 
#20 ·
Mine likely won't hit the doorstep until late this week, will post photos in the other thread.

Looks pretty straightforward (says hamfisted guy). If that changes once surgery commences, I'll stitch it back together. Doubtful I try to tackle the as of yet unknown paddle shifter solution and instead just take 'em off.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Below are some photos of the stock WK2 removal for the driver airbag portion.

604, could you please provide tips to disconnect the two yellow airbag clip-ins from photo #3 below? I don't want to fack up the airbag.

Please and thanks.

First photo are the two 10mm bolts at 3 and 9 oclock on the backside of the wheel that need to come out to take off the Jeep circular airbag faceplate.



This shot shoes the circular airbag component pulled away from the wheel, the bolt opening in silver shows the 3 and 9 oclock bolt mount openings.



604, any tips on unclipping the two yellow connectors below without causing damage would be much appreciated. All other connectors are pretty straightforward.



Once all electrical connectors are disconnected, this is a shot of the main steering wheel mounting bolt that gets it outta there. Per 604's tips a breaker bar helps loosen this hex bolt. Tip: the white electrical clip to the right of the hex bolt has a small button on the right side of the white clip that needs to be pushed in before pulling out the plug.



More shots to follow of SRT8 wheel.

Thanks again 604, nice work.
 
#22 · (Edited)
WK2 SRT8 wheel frontside shot.




Shot of backside paddle shifter. They can be removed via the two small torx screws on the top side of the paddle shifter above the "L" along the black strip. Unfortunately my smallest torx bit is T7 but it is too large. Crap.

 
#23 · (Edited)
Hey Moose, just gently pry the orange retaining clips on the top of the connector upwards with a very small flathead driver and they will pop up about 1/8" away from yellow base, then they should just unplug from the airbag. They are color coded connectors so don't worry about which is which.
 
#24 ·
You sir, are the man! Worked like a charm and I'll sleep well knowing the airbag won't blow my head off.

Thanks a ton.



Now for that stubborn !#*X!* 10 hex bolt. Breaker bar and sweat not working so far.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Yeah the Hex can be no fun - If you are having trouble holding the steering wheel straight I saw another writeup where they tied a loop around the bottom spoke of the wheel with a tie down strap or similar and then tie a loop you can step your foot into to hold it straight. Essentially it allows you to hold the steering wheel with your feet and use both hands to try to crack the bolt. I also had a small section of pipe (actually a section of the handle of my jack) that I used for extra leverage on the breaker bar.

You're so close!
 
#27 ·
^Holding the wheel still was tricky. I did something similar with a hefty broomstick between my legs. Felt like it was gonna end up where the sun don't shine.

Having the 10 hex key socket fitment with short extender and breaker bar was a must to get clean leverage onto the hex bolt. Note there is blue locktite on the damn thing.

Tip: Do not use an allen wrench, you'll screw yourself up pretty easily and/or strip the bolt head.
 
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