I would go OEM, I personally think the aftermarket ones that exit under the bumper look like crap
You will see the template to cut the fascia once its removed. Its on the back , its very light but its there.
Follow the lines exactly, or the trim wont fit and you will not be happy with how it looks.
No issue with the camera, youre not near it when installing a hitch

 

Two photos of my aftermarket hitch. It's also removable when I sell it. I like it, it's a clean look.

 

I'm considering installing the OEM trailer hitch on my 2018 GC Limited. 6cyl. I'm pretty handy but am worried about two items.
1) How do you know where to cut the bumper? I see some folks say there is marking on the inside of the bumper but is that really true? Just looking underneath with a flashlight I'm not seeing any markings.....but it is very hard to see with the bumper still in place.
2) Am I going to screw up my back up camera? I don't know where that is.

Otherwise I'm a patient and creative mechanic, so I am confident I can work through the install.
I am considering using an aftermarket hitch that comes out just below the bumper. It looks like the install is a breeze but it does not look as durable as the OEM.

Comments are very much appreciated.
Thanks

If you go off-road you don't want the aftermarket hitch hanging down and sticking out as it will be prone to hitting things on sharp inclines.

 

Also, worth mentioning is with the OEM hitch , the trailer plug bracket is integrated.
it's a cleaner look and less likely to get damaged due to its location

 

I'm considering installing the OEM trailer hitch on my 2018 GC Limited. 6cyl. I'm pretty handy but am worried about two items.
1) How do you know where to cut the bumper? I see some folks say there is marking on the inside of the bumper but is that really true? Just looking underneath with a flashlight I'm not seeing any markings.....but it is very hard to see with the bumper still in place.
2) Am I going to screw up my back up camera? I don't know where that is.

Otherwise I'm a patient and creative mechanic, so I am confident I can work through the install.
I am considering using an aftermarket hitch that comes out just below the bumper. It looks like the install is a breeze but it does not look as durable as the OEM.

Comments are very much appreciated.
Thanks

Thanks so much. Great info from all. I'll brave the OEM and order one today.

 

If you have a 2018 beware that you might not have the OEM hitch wiring harness from the factory.
I am getting ready to do this job as well on my 2018 Upland and I have the OEM style hitch and plug and found out I don't have the prewiring so I need to either pay $300 and buy that and run it myself (which looks like a major pain in the @$$) or figure out another way.

Anyone know if I can run aftermarket wiring (ex: Curt) and integrate it into the OEM plug?

 

If you have a 2018 beware that you might not have the OEM hitch wiring harness from the factory.
I am getting ready to do this job as well on my 2018 Upland and I have the OEM style hitch and plug and found out I don't have the prewiring so I need to either pay $300 and buy that and run it myself (which looks like a major pain in the @$$) or figure out another way.

Anyone know if I can run aftermarket wiring (ex: Curt) and integrate it into the OEM plug?

yes, I read that as well. I’m lucky in that I have the prewired cable. So that will save me some time. I have seen kits that snap on the the tail light connectors. Maybe one of those would be easier for you?

 

Factory hitch:

Pros: Tucked up high and integrated behind the bumper for a nicer look.
Cons: Expensive as he11, requires cutting your bumper cover, and provides no protection for your bumper cover if you go off road.

Aftermarket hitch:

Pros: Inexpensive, easier to install, acts a bit as a skid shield to protect your bumper cover if you go off road.
Cons: Hangs down a little lower and may require getting creative with your ball mounts to keep your trailer level while towing.

I'm debating this very topic myself right now, and I'm heavily leaning toward the Draw-Tite brand similar to what is shown in post #3.

 

Factory hitch:
Pros: Tucked up high and integrated behind the bumper for a nicer look.
Cons: Expensive as he11, requires cutting your bumper cover, and provides no protection for your bumper cover if you go off road.
Aftermarket hitch:
Pros: Inexpensive, easier to install, acts a bit as a skid shield to protect your bumper cover if you go off road.
Cons: Hangs down a little lower and may require getting creative with your ball mounts to keep your trailer level while towing.
I'm debating this very topic myself right now, and I'm heavily leaning toward the Draw-Tite brand similar to what is shown in post #3.

Cutting the bumper cover isn't a "Con" .. I've cut a couple for neighbors. Unsnap the lower bumper cover, place it on saw horses, and cut the four slits and the hole for the hitch with a RotoZip or cutting bit in your drill. Takes maybe a little over one minute to make the cuts. Snap the bezel on the lower bumper cover and it's a clean look.

 

I Installed my OEM hitch the job wasn't that hard, it took me abut an hour to install it at no time did I feel uncomfortable removing the bumper cover and cutting along the outline for the hitch bezel. My vehicle (2011 Wk2) had the wiring already in place from the factory and I paid about an hours labor for the Jeep dealer to flash the computer.

The OEM hitch is a much better option and there are complete WK2 OEM hitches up the wazooo out there on ebay, marketplace, craigslistm etc. for well under $300.00.

 

Im doing OEM on my 2022 Grand cherokee L, I have gone to the junk yard to get the hitch and self-leving shocks, tolal was $70.00 for those? You can buy the buper on ebay for $129.00 fits perfect. You do need an different power box and you can also buy the cable harness from ebay OEM only, you also need to ugrade the radiator for engine cooling and transmission cooling. I'll list the part#s for you once you are all done you have to go to the dealer to switch it on in the jeeps computer . These are for 2018 to 2022 Contact me if you have any questions 208-914-1931 After market wont let you pull very much!!
(Power Distribution Center), 3.6L

JEEP Year 2018 - 2022

Model GRAND CHEROKEE

MPN 68320918AC, 68320918AE, 68425194AB



TRAILER TOW WIRING 2018-2022 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE OEM ACCESSORY 82216006AC



For 11-22 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK 3.6L w/ Tow Package Rear Lower Bumper Valance OEM Part Number:68078316AA / 68078316AB / 68111468AA 68111468AB



Nivomat Load-leveling Shocks: Part# 52830 / 68577868AA



220-Amp Alternator: Part# 56029802AB



Heavy-Duty Engine Cooling: Part# 55038001AH

 

There’s a raised outline inside the bumper cover for the OEM piece to snap into. You also have to cut slots for the tabs. Those are also marked.

 

Another thing I've seen brought up on OEM receiver vs and aftermarket below the bumper receiver is how they mount to the vehicle. The OEM has bars that slide into boxed sections of the body with I think 4 bolts. It spreads the stresses over a larger area and helps compensate for all the weakness that people complain about in a unibody vehicle and towing*. The below the bumper aftermarket receivers I've seen sometimes only use 2 bolts per side, or maybe 3, vs the 4 of the OEM and lose the advantage of the sleeved fit in the body. Maybe some don't have that problem, as I haven't seen them all.

Looks like Drawtite makes a receiver that is engineered to fit like the OEM. That doesn't solve the having to cut the bumper cover, but it might be an option. Might not save anything by the time you piece together the covers and such.

*I read a while back a great explanation that yeah, many unibody vehicles with hitches mounted by using random available holes or drilled holes had stress problems because they weren't designed for the hitch. That vs something like the WK2 that had the body engineered for the receiver mount, and it becomes a moot point, if the receiver mounts as designed.

 

The backup camera is on the rear spoiler above the rear glass. You have to remove the bumper cover and disconnect the parking sensors if you have them and you’ll see the outline there’s an outline for the cut out for the original equipment bumper insert that goes around the hitch.

 

I just completed the tow hitch install today in my garage. Was not too bad. Took my time. I was able to just take off the lower fascia instead of the whole bumper. Hardest part (for me) was making the cut for the trim on the lower bumper. I ended up drilling some pilot holes and tried making the cuts with my Dremel but it just made a mess by melting the plastic as I cut. Ended up finishing the cuts with my Hackzall lol and overall cutout was pretty rough but luckily is mostly hidden by the trim piece. Also ended up breaking a tab when pressing the trim in place but its still sits flush and is secured by the spring clips.

For now my hitch plug is non functional until I can get a relay kit and tap into the tail lights. Could I just run the wires to the back of the 7 pin pinouts and still get the 4 pin connector to work?

 

This why I always recommend on these threads to use a RotoZip or a cutting bit in your drill. I started one with a dremel and fortunately remembered i own a RotoZip. I can perform all 5 cuts in just over a minute with a RotoZip. Not admonishing you, just reference anyone that may be doing this in the future.